Mikwawa and weekend two

Mikwawa – weekend two

When Don Fultz and I arrived at the church in Mikwawa, it was only five minutes or so before the first service was scheduled to begin. There was not a soul in sight. As we parked the car, Pastor Thadei Kihwaga, who had served as my interpreter the previous Sunday, appeared to welcome us and usher us into the sacristy where we prepared ourselves for worship. The sound of singing began in the sanctuary. Pastor Thadei, Don, Joyce and I entered the church which by now, only ten minutes after we had arrived, was filled almost to overflowing with people.

As the service began, I looked out over the congregation at eager, expectant faces. They were obviously excited to be there, and responded to Pastor Thadei’s leadership with enthusiasm. Two women came forward from the gathered crowd to be involved with Pastor Thadei in a liturgical action that included the laying on of hands in an act of blessing. They were there because, after a time of falling away from the church, they had returned and were seeking acceptance from the congregation. What we were privileged to observe was the Rite of Reconciliation. These people take their church seriously!

The singing was uplifting! Accompanied only by a drum played by an elderly woman, the choirs (there were two if them) and congregation swayed rhythmically as they sang hymns and anthems in rich harmony. Even without knowing the language, the harmony was easy to digest. I felt the energy growing within me, and knew the presence of God!

Safari in Ruaha

Safari

This is going to be a very hard article to write, because words may simply not capture the experience of Safari. I will try once again to upload some pictures, but as I said before, it is very difficult with the limited time and technology available. So here goes my best effort to describe the most incredible experience of my life!

On Thursday of last week (since today is Sunday), we boarded the bus for a 4 hour ride into Ruaha National Park and the Mwagusi Safari Camp. Mwagusi is a very small camp but has been on the banks of the Mwagusi River for a long time. It has a reputation as the best of the safari camps, which we found to be well deserved! The accommodations were VERY comfortable, the food was fabulous, the staff was most attentive to our needs and anticipated most of them, and the guides were well trained and knowledgeable.

Joyce and I were assigned to Banda #2. These were large living spaces made from native wood and reeds covered with dried grasses. There were three parts to each banda: The first was a spacious entrance which resembled a living room that was open to the river. There was a hammock, a small desk, and a recessed area with a sand floor and overstuffed lounging couches from which to observe any passing wild life. The second part which was the largest (about 20 x 20 feet) was where the tent was suspended. The tent was HUGE and housed a desk, chairs and a king-sized bed with lamp tables! The third section was the bathroom, which was circular, with a sink (running water), and a flush toilet and shower in privacy areas off to opposite sides. The tent was closed with zipper flaps at both ends to keep us well protected from insects and critters at night, but left open during the day. The banda was more comfortable than many hotel rooms that I’ve been in!

The staff helped us move in, carrying our bags and instructing us in the fine art of camping in Africa. We were told that it was OK to wander around the paths of the camp during daylight, but that as soon as the sun went down we were to wait until a staff member came to “collect” us and escort us to the main dining area and back. We soon found out that one could easily get lost and disoriented on the many paths in the camp. Lunch was a gourmet feast of vegetable dishes, rice, and meat that rivaled a fine restaurant back home! It was true of every meal!

During our stay we took four “game-drives”, each lasting 3-4 hours. We were carried in open air safari vehicles which afforded everyone with the best view and photo opportunities while still protecting us from the sun and rain (it rained once on the three days). Our drivers were very good and knew the park roads like the back of their hands, and our guide, Sampson, was just incredible! He could spot a bird from a hundred yards away and point out a black-eared fox simply because its ears were sticking up out of the grass. His “trophy find” was a Cheetah lying behind a bush, blending with the grasses, with only its nose showing behind the bush --- from a hundred yards away!!! With his guidance, we found and observed up close and personal almost all the animals for which Africa is noted, while he told us all of the things that made each unique. What an education!!

Thursday supper was served on the beach where we gathered around a roaring fire for wine and appetizers. For the main course, we were ushered to a long table nearby which was set with all the fine china and silver, and from there to a long trench of hot coals on which rested our food being kept piping hot in special dishes that could withstand the fire. Kerosene lanterns had been hung at various points on the cliff across the river. The stars were unbelievably bright, and candles lit the table. It was absolutely a romantic setting beyond compare.

We are here in the rainy season which begins in December and lasts through April. Tanzania is a land of lush green bushes, trees and grass during this time, and beautiful landscapes. The rivers contain some water, though we haven’t seen a lot, and often the animals can be seen as they travel to and from the rivers. The Baobab, the Acacia and the Mahogany trees are all around and add a unique character to the landscape.

I’m writing this post on Sunday, and this morning it was my privilege to preach again in another of the churches of the Iringa Diocese. All of the churches in Tanzania are bursting at the seams, and everywhere we go, they are building new and larger facilities to house the worshippers. Frankly, it puts our American churches to shame, not just by the numbers, but also by the enthusiasm as they gather to praise God and share in community. Often they say, “We have made it to this day only by the grace of God, and we want to thank him!” Services last two to two and one half hours routinely and no one gets restless. Sermons are expected to last 45-60 minutes. If not, they think you don’t have anything to say!

We are deeply grateful to have had this experience, but we are beginning to hear the call of home. Wednesday we will travel to Dar Es Salaam, spend the night and tour the city on Thursday. We fly out for home late Thursday.

Disclaimer –

Those of you who have followed previous blog histories of my travels may have noticed that the occurrence of new chapters is not as regular as previously true. There are two reasons for that:

1. Access to the internet is not nearly as easy in Iringa as in other parts of the world, and so I haven’t been able to connect every day.

2. We are being kept so busy that the days fly by with less time to write about the experience on a regular basis. I have not been able to devote nearly as much time to processing pictures either, and so there may not be as many of those for now (but just WAIT until I get home!)

Weekend One

On SATURDAY – Our group was subdivided into three smaller groups for the weekend which was spent in “the villages” (translate “in the country”). Joyce and I joined Richard and Janice Olson as the group to travel to the village of Kidumali. The ride out was rough (see previous discussion of roads in Africa) but short, and our driver, Peter, got us there in good shape. We arrived around lunch time and our interpreter, Pastor Tadei (pron. TA-DAY-EE) Kihiwaka, who had come with us from Iringa Town, introduced us to our host, Pastor John Kisoma, who took us into his home where we met his wife. She and some women from the church had prepared us a traditional African meal, served buffet style, which began, as did every meal, with a ritual washing of the hands. One of the women stood just inside the door with a pitcher of warm water which she poured over our hands. There were no towels.

Lunch consisted of rice, cooked green bananas, potatoes, a shredded salad of tomatoes, cabbage and peppers, followed by chunks of beef and chicken. In the dimly lit room (one small light bulb suspended from the center of the ceiling) I thought I detected a piece of white meat chicken which I placed on my plate and ate last. As I picked it up, something struck me as unusual. On closer examination I found that I had picked up the HEAD of the chicken complete with the beak and the top crown. My efforts to find some meat on this thing greatly amused our hosts, and became the story of the day!

On Saturday afternoon, we had the opportunity to visit the local “water factory” which, as it turns out, processes, bottles and distributes most of the bottled water for Tanzania, and beyond. It is labeled “Africa Water” and is sold throughout Tanzania very cheaply “because clean water is so important in Africa”, according to the manager of the Plant. Our tour was followed by supper back at the pastor’s home, which was exactly the same as lunch with the addition of some home-grown peanuts of which the pastor’s wife was justly proud! This time I was careful to select a chicken WING!

On SUNDAY – The focus of the day was worship and I was scheduled to preach the sermon. Tea (breakfast) was served at the pastor’s house which was a short walk down a path from the guesthouse (more like a dormitory) where we spent the night. Following Tea, (boiled eggs, fried dough, toast, and tea) we were invited to return to the guesthouse and to wait there until time for worship, We were told the service would start at 10am and last for 2 and one-half hours if the preacher didn’t preach more than 30 minutes! I relaxed a bit when I heard that this included translation! True to his word, the Pastor arrived at the guesthouse just before ten and we began the festive procession from the guesthouse to the church, accompanied by much singing and ceremony, and frequent “yodeling” – a high pitched sound which the women make with rapid, side-to-side motion of their tongues. It is an expression of great joy – almost ecstasy! The bell (an old wheel hub contraption) was rung constantly during our procession. Children were everywhere, and they are beautiful children!

The music of the service was joyous, rhythmic, and just generally inspiring, and there was lots of it. Two choirs sang – an adult and a children’s choir – and the congregation sang with gusto as well. Because there were to be guests (us) there was only one service (normally 2) and it was so packed that many had to stand outside and listen through the open windows. They are building a new and larger church in the village because the congregation is growing so rapidly. I stood to preach, and was suddenly very aware of the fact that I was expected to unfold the Gospel of Jesus Christ to people who, for the most part, couldn’t understand a single word I was going to say! Thank God for the power of prayer and the presence of our interpreter, who stood next to me and said in Swahili what I said in English (at least I think he did!).

Following three (3) offerings and sharing Eucharist, gifts were exchanged between us and the congregation (we received beautiful baskets) and the recessional began. I though everyone would go home, but was surprised to exit the church and find the whole congregation still there, arranged in a semi-circle, while the choir sang and danced in the center. Then came the benediction! I looked at my watch. It was 12:45!

Sunday Evening - We returned to the Lutheran Center from the Village for a brief rest before leaving to attend a “sending out” ceremony. The Bishop’s daughter was being married, and African tradition calls for the bride’s family to “send out” their daughter to be received into the family of the groom! It begins with a church service at which only the bride is present and not the groom. Following the service the groom’s family throws a BIG party during which the bride “discovers” the groom and is given gifts by all who are present. A meal is shared and the party goes on from there. The church service was in the afternoon, the event began at 6pm or so, and the partying went on until sun-up on Monday morning!! Mind you, the Wedding isn’t until NEXT weekend!

What a weekend!!!

From Africa

Hello family and friends,

Joyce and I are in Iringa, Tanzania, Africa, and our “adventure” has begun.
The story of how we got here, however, is filled with twists and turns!

This blogpost covers what may turn out to be one of the most challenging travel experiences we’ve had, but let me start from the beginning. Actually, the flight from Boston to Amsterdam went very smoothly. We parked the car in Natick, caught the Logan Express which dropped us off in front of the terminal, jumped through the usual hoops for any plane trip, took off on time, landed on time, and after a night of dozing on the 6 hour flight to Schipol Airport in Amsterdam, started Wednesday by meeting our traveling companions in the boarding area for the KLM flight to Dar Es Salaam. Our group consists of 11 people – 5 of my seminary classmates and 6 others, wives, soon-to-be wives, and one widow. Once again, everything went smoothly (with only a minor problem discovered in the braking system of the airplane which delayed our pushback by an hour) and we settled in for what we thought would be the longest stretch of the trip – 11 hours of flying to Kilimanjaro, where we were scheduled for a quick stop over before another quick flight to Dar.

As the plane landed in Kilimanjaro and was being re-fueled, the captain came on the speaker with the following announcement, “Ladies and Gentlemen, we have just learned that many bombs have just exploded near the airport in Dar Es Salaam. This appears to be an accident at a military ammunition dump located near the airport, but there has been some damage to the airport and it has now been closed. We hope this is a temporary and brief condition, and as soon as the airport is reopened, we will be on our way!” The situation went rapidly downhill from there! The situation in Dar was far worse than had been thought. 25 people were killed, many were injured, and the airport was closed until further notice. KLM responded beautifully, arranging for hotel accommodations in Arushu and bus transport to the hotel (a long hour north of Kilimanjero), but when we got there, the scene was chaotic. 50 people crowded around the reservation desk, each one wanting priority attention from two desk clerks who couldn’t find any room keys, and were taking the attitude (not uncommon here) that they would get to us in their own sweet time and in the random order they would chose! It was now 3:30am on Thursday (we lost a day somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean). We finally got into our rooms and fell into bed to a fitful few hours of sleep. How do you shut your mind off after such an abrupt turn of events and sleep well? We didn’t! We kept thinking, ‘our families and friends are going to see this on CNN and we have absolutely no way to communicate with them that we are OK!’. The next morning, we were able to use the hotel’s internet cafe’ to communicate, but the problem was we had little to tell anybody. The airline was giving us mixed messages at best, and so we took the bull by the horns and hired a bus to drive us to Iringa. We waited until noon for the bus to arrive, and then set out for what turned out to be a sixteen hour trip over “roads” that were made up of mostly holes and speed bumps held together by random strands of asphalt over which our driver bounced at what to us seemed breakneck speed. We arrived at the Lutheran Center in Iringa at 5am and literally fell into bed! We are in Africa!!