Tucker Mountain

Tucker Mountain, Vermont

Not unlike life, the road to Tucker Mountain is challenging and filled with difficulties and obstacles. At 1703 feet above sea level, Tucker Mountain is not a big mountain. It is not close to the majestic 4000 footers of the White Mountains to the east and is not even the highest peak in the neighborhood, Woodchuck Mountain being 1760 feet and Currier Hill holding the top spot at 1960 feet. Unlike those “giants”, however, Tucker Mountain has a road that can take you quite near the peak and so is much better known than the others.

Occasionally, Tucker Mountain is closed when the farmer who owns the peak decides to graze sheep on its flanks, but most often the access path to the very peak is ungated, and, if you’ve made it this far up the road, there is nothing to stop you from bumping over the rocks and ruts to the very peak. From the top you can see forever! Unlike many peaks that lie below the tree line, this mountain is crowned by a grassy meadow, and although the trees that surround the meadow have grown over the years to obstruct the view somewhat, one can still see mountain ranges in every direction – the Whites of New Hampshire to the East, the Greens of Vermont to the North and South, and the Adirondacks of New York to the West. The view is magnificent in every season!

I said that the road up the mountain is difficult, and it is only this view and it’s accompanying peace that makes it worth while driving. Most of the road is quite steep but where it levels out in brief stretches it is often muddy with deep ruts. Mud in Vermont has a season all its own somewhere between Winter and Spring, and most folks know enough to limit travel during this time to paved roads. If one must venture into the backcountry, knowledgeable Vermonters carry chains, knowing how the mud can put you off the road or, even worse, IN the road. Years ago my family and I went looking for a “Sugar House” which we had identified on the map and which had developed a reputation for producing especially good Maple syrup. Sugaring happens when the nights are cold and the days are warm – and the snow is melting! That’s the nicest way I can think of to describe “mud season”. In a moment of inattention I let the car drift toward the edge of the road. I was suddenly axle deep in mud, and we came to a jolting stop. None of my efforts at jockeying the car helped – in fact, they only made it worse – and so I sheepishly trudged off to the nearest farmhouse to seek help. In true Vermont form, the farmer didn’t say much but climbed on his tractor and headed out to lend a hand. As he walked around our car to assess the situation, he shook his head, let out a low whistle and said, “Ayeah, you’re stuck!”
The mud on Tucker Mountain road doesn’t limit itself to “mud season”, it’s there after every rain. On the steeper parts, one contends with large boulders, deep washouts, and where it really gets steep, loose gravel that easily gives way leaving your wheels spinning but not moving you forward much. Many is the time I’ve sworn never to make this drive again without a jeep!

Circumstances in the Fall of 2009, however, drew me irresistibly to the top of Tucker Mountain with only my little two-wheel drive pickup truck pitted against the road.
In reality this was a return trip. Just two weeks ago, my family and I, together with our good friends, the Pawluks, had gathered on this same peak to offer prayers of thanks for my beloved Sandra and our son, Nathaniel – and to scatter their ashes. Sandra had died suddenly six months ago and Nathaniel, the son we really never got to know, had died in childbirth now over 30 years ago. Somehow we had never found the right time or place to fully commit him back to the earth, but now his ashes had been mingled with those of his mother and we who remained had relinquished our hold on both of them. This peaceful meadow on the top of Tucker Mountain was the place that Sandra had chosen as her resting place many years ago, and now, as I stood alone on the mountain, I sorted through all the memories of the life we had shared, but particularly the memories of time spent in Vermont. Sandra had loved Vermont. We came here often to the little cabin by the lake. Our family grew up at the beach just around the bend from the cabin and many an hour had been spent chasing the elusive fish that we knew were just below the surface. But Sandra was never happier than when we challenged the road that took us to the top of Tucker Mountain. For her this place was a precursor of heaven.

I don’t know how often I’ll return to this tranquil place. Vermont is a longer drive from home than I care to make in one day, and I will probably find many things to keep me busy at home. But when I can I will come, and when I do I will ask leave of the road to allow me passage to this peaceful summit where once and again I will breathe in the memories of a God-gifted life and exhale a prayer of thanks!

Written by David Halmers in memory of Sandra and Nathaniel and with gratitude to God for gifting us with them both. October 9, 2009

Photos by David for Eye and the Maker Graphics

Day 11 – Bergen, Norway

Our last port of call is Bergen, Norway. It rains so much here that it is said that Bergen’s babies are born with umbrellas! However, today broke sunny and clear and Marina and I set off to explore the town.
Bergen, Norway’s second largest city is a charming city with its picturesque Bryggen Wharf area of attractive wooden buildings reflective of the Middle Ages. Rebuilt in 1702 after a fire, the Bryggen has one of the best open-air fish markets in the world! It is very walkable city and after we left the fish market, we walked to the Domkirke (Church of the Dome). It is a 12th Century church of the Church of Norway (Lutheran, in case you’d like to know!) that is an imposing stone structure. The interior is plain but beautiful with an incredible organ that looks like a church in itself. A cannonball is still lodged in the front wall that dates back to the battle on the Bay of Bergen in 1665 between the British and Dutch Navies.
Tomorrow is a day at sea as we head back to Harwich, where this all began. It will be a day of packing and preparing to leave the ship on Saturday, when we will wing our way back across the Atlantic to home! We are all ready for home, but as we reflect on this past two weeks, we have an incredible gift of experiences and memories to bring with us.
This will be our last post until we get home and can reflect on the trip a bit. Until then, we hope you have enjoyed keeping up with us. We look forward to seeing many of you soon!
David, Marina and Jessika

Days 9 and 10 – Flam and Alesund, Norway

I’ve combined these two days as they had much in common. Flam is located at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord and a favorite of the Vikings. Here the sheer mountain walls climb twice as high as the 1,500 feet width of this, the narrowest of all fjords, creating an almost permanent shade. A train runs from Flan up into the mountains, rising 3,000 feet through incredible scenic overlooks and long tunnels. Marina left the train in Vatnahalsen where she joined a group that hiked down the mountain to Berekvan, a distance of almost 6 miles! Jessika and I continued on to Voss, where we were served a traditional Norwegian luncheon buffet (aka Smorgasbord). Voss is the birthplace of America’s great football coach Knute Rockne. We left Voss aboard a bus and traveled the Stalheims-Kleivene, a daring hairpin transverse of Mt. Stalheim, Europe’s steepest road (averaging 18 percent incline!). Bus drivers in Norway (and in Ireland and Scotland for that matter) are heroes who handle buses like they were Volkswagen Beetles!
By Wednesday morning we were in Alesund, situated at the mouth of the Stor Fjord, located halfway along the Norwegian Coast between Trondheim and Bergen. With a population of almost 40,000 people, the city is built on three islands connected by a network of bridges. Overlooking the city is Mount Alska offering magnificent views of the harbor, city and surrounding fjords. It was our first stop on a bus trip that took Marina and David through the land of the Trolls and the Norwegian countryside. Passing along several fjords and climbing up into impressive mountain heights, this trip also included a traditional Norwegian lunch. For some reason these Smorgasbords turn into feeding frenzies when tourists are involved, and this one was no exception! A viewing platform overlooked the “Trolls’ Ladder”, or Trollstigen, one of Norway’s most popular attractions. The Trollstigen rises from the valley floor to the top of the mountain, winding its way through eleven hairpin turns that zigzag across the face of the mountain. And everywhere the Waterfalls!!
Jessika spent today at the Atlantic Sea Park, one of the largest aquariums in Europe and the largest in Scandinavia. The Sea Park is unique in that it is built into the coastal landscape and adapted to modern exhibition principles. She had a great time getting up close and personal with a wide variety of Atlantic creatures! At the end of these two days we have experienced Norway in a Nutshell, and I have gained a new appreciation for my Norwegian roots. I’m coming home with a new determination to find the Norsk history of the Halmers (or Helmer or Hjelmerson) family.
One of the blessings of this cruise has been our table partners at dinner on most nights. Malcolm and Sandra Peers are from the North of England, and have been delightful conversation partners over dinner. Tomorrow night is the final Formal Night of the cruise and we’ll gat a photo of them to share with you all. See you tomorrow in Bergen!

Day 8 – Geiranger Fjord – Norway

As we awakened this morning, the Jewel of the Sea was entering Norwegian waters and the Geiranger Fjord. Called the “Diva” of Norwegian fjords, the ‘Geiranger’ is 1,600 feet wide and 1,200 feet deep, with snowcapped mountains as high as 6,000 feet lining the waterway. The lacy curtains of snow melt that cascade over the steep cliffs, many into the fjord itself, are given romantic names such as; Bridal Veil, The Suitor and Seven Sisters.
Marina and I were scheduled for a kayaking excursion on the fjord this morning, and we were grateful for a clear, warm day with calm seas. 46 passengers occupied 23 double kayaks and we were off on an hour and a half trip on the fjord. We were exhausted by the time we returned, but had been rewarded with a magnificent experience of this wonderful fjord, including a close up view of the Seven Sisters waterfall! We ordered two hamburgers and sodas at a local Bistro and were shocked by the $40 bill! Hardly left us with any resource to shop, but we managed to plunk down a few more kroner (Norwegian currency) before we returned to the ship for a well earned nap! I also got back in touch with my ancestral Troll, and am happy to introduce him to you! (See picture, and note the resemblance!!)
Late this afternoon, while the sun was still high in the sky (it doesn’t set until 11:45pm) the Jewel weighed anchor and set off down the fjord, headed for Flam and the Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the 204 kilometer long Sognefjord. Should be another magnificent day, and the weather promises to hold for the rest of our trip. Wow!!

Day 6 and 7 – Scotland and day at sea

It is Sunday, and as I write this we are steaming through the North Atlantic toward the coast of Norway. There is not much to see through the fog, but plenty to do aboard ship. I’ll spend an hour in the golf simulator later today. (Does that make me a simulated golfer?)
Yesterday was the day for the Scottish experience. “Landscapes, Lochs and sheepdogs” were the order of the day as we were ushered to our bus by a bagpiper and a “committee” of friendly Scots. The landscape was lush and lovely, with an abundance of sheep on the slopes and hills. There is no doubt why this part of the world is called the Emerald Isle! I am convinced that the devil planted the hedgerows along every road just to torment photographers! The trees are so close that they brush the sides of the bus, with infrequent gaps that fool you into thinking you might take a picture.
Our first stop was at the Scottish Wool Center where we were treated to a delightful demonstration of Border Collies herding ducks through an obstacle course. That was followed by several volunteers trying to herd the same ducks through the same course. Guess which did better? We learned a great deal from the shepherd about the five varieties of sheep in Scotland, some bred for coarse wool used in rugs, some with fine wool used for clothing (I bought a sweater), and some bred for meat. The wool from a lamb brings $2, while the meat from that same lamb would bring upwards of $160!! Needless to say, the lamb bred for quality meat carries the day!
After lunch at a wayside hotel, our next stop was at Loch Lomand – the very same Loch of the “Bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomand”. It is a beautiful 27 mile long by 5 mile wide lake with a number of picturesque castles along its banks, and we enjoyed them all on a 45 minute cruise aboard a sightseeing streamship.
A very fast bus ride back to the pier returned us to the Jewel of the Seas just in time for “all aboard”. An entire Pipe band welcomed us back, and within 15 minutes of our return we were underway!
See you next in Norway!!!

Day 5 – Dublin, Ireland

Dublin, a city of close to one million people, is Ireland’s largest city and serves as its capital. Early this morning the Jewel of the Seas entered the largest port we have seen yet – a port that has suffered greatly from the recession, but is still busy with container ships generating the primary activity. The Guinness brewery is one of the world’s largest and is Ireland’s largest private employer. Trinity College, which houses Ireland’s world famous “Book of Kells” (an 8th century illustrated manuscript of the Gospels ) is also in this city, and therein lay the dilemma – Guinness or Kells – Guinness or Kells??? ‘Twas easily solved. Dad went to Guinness and the girls went to view the Book of Kells. Both tours gave us a chance to see the city with its contrast of the very old with the modern. Dublin is still haunted by the memories of the Great Famine, but is also aware of the financial and cultural benefits of having joined the European Union. The River Liffey runs through the city and is crossed by 11 bridges, one of which is brand new and built to represent a harp, which is both the symbol of Guinness and of Ireland. (Guinness had it first and refused to let Ireland adopt it as the national symbol unless they turned it to face the opposite direction!)
The Guinness Storehouse (now a museum) is a seven story tower, the floors of which trace the brewing process and history of Guinness Stout. The seventh floor is a circular glass bar where guests are served a complimentary brew at the end of the tour. It is also a terrific location from which to view a panorama of the city and to photograph some of the most notable landmarks.
The girls tour was blessed with a tour guide who interpreted the city of Dublin non-stop all the way to Dublin Castle, the first stop. The Castle has been devastated by several fires, and has been renovated to resemble less a castle, but with many of the same features and rooms of the old building. Next was Trinity College (Dublin University) and the “Book of Kells”. The first room presented the history of this illustrated manuscript and then led to the “Treasury” which actually houses the “Book”. A staircase led to “the long room” which serves as Trinity College’s library, housing around 200,000 of the library’s oldest books. This library houses a copy of every book ever copyrighted in England and Ireland – a magnificent hall, but no photographs allowed! Marina and Jessika confessed to me that they had both had a lot of “crack” (actually, “craik” – the Irish word for fun, but they had me going for a minute!).
The ship is feeling more and more like a floating home, and the afternoon offered lunch, some pool time, and just sheer relaxation! A show tonight features Jacqui Scott, leading lady from ‘Evita’, ‘Cats’, and ‘Miss Saigon’.

Days 3 and 4 – Cherbourg, France and Cork, Ireland

Today Jessika launched out on her own for a tour of two of the gardens in Normandy. Known for its place in history as the site of some of the pivotal battles of World War two, Normandy today is known for its sculptured gardens maintained as monuments to peace. Jessika’s comment was “I’ve dreamed of living in a place like this!” She described one of the gardens as containing species from all around the world – including magnificent stands of bamboo.
For Marina and David today was a day aboard ship. Dad won the round of miniature golf (by two strokes playing left handed), and when Jessi returned we all enjoyed a swim in the Solarium. Dad added a soak in the hot tub for good measure. Dinner was the first of three formal nights of the trip and Dad and Marina got “duded up” for the occasion, while Jessi opted for the buffet in the Windjammer dining room.
On Thursday we awakened as the Jewel of the Sea docked in Cork (Cobh) Ireland. The three of us left the ship for a scenic drive through the Irish countryside (often hard to see through the hedgerows lining the narrow roads) while our guide narrated the history of the area. She reminded us that Cork was the final port of call for the Titanic as well as the point of departure for thousands of Irish immigrants headed for the new world.
Our ultimate destination was the town of Blarney, home of the Blarney castle and its magical stone. If I trusted in its magic, I should have come here years ago, (to gain the gift of eloquence) but alas, those of you who have heard me preach will have to judge between the power of the Blarney stone and the power of the Holy Spirit! The lines of people were too long and the castle tower too tall, and I had to content myself with taking photos (what would you expect?) and hoisting a pint of Guinness . We later found out that the folks in County Cork are not too fond of Guinness, preferring their own brand of stout! Shopping at the Blarney Woolen Mills was another attraction and then the return to Cobh. Marina and Dad took a short walk into the colorful village of Cork before returning to the ship where Dad discovered that he had lost his “Sea Pass Card” without which he couldn’t get back on the ship!! With the eloquence of the Blarney stone I talked myself past two levels of security and back on the ship. It really wasn’t heroic - it was more like eating humble pie and begging!!
So tonight I’ll post this blog and hope you enjoy the photos of Blarney Castle and colorful Cobh, Ireland.